01
Port-Miou
The closest room to the water, and the loudest at five in the morning, when the fishing boats leave for the day's line.
€320 – €390
Cassis, Bouches-du-Rhône
Nine rooms built into the cliff above Port-Miou, where the Route des Calanques meets the sea.
I
In 1897 a Cassis ship-fitter named Auguste Reynaud built a villa into the limestone above Port-Miou, high enough to watch his boats round the point before the mistral turned. It stayed in his family three generations, then stood shuttered for eleven years.
We opened Ondine on the same footprint in 2014 — kept the barrel-vaulted cellar, the wrought-iron stair, the single cypress that outlasted the storm of 1956. Nine rooms, no more. The villa was never built to hold a crowd.
Cassis works low: boats out before six, the catch on ice by nine, café terraces filling by ten. Ondine keeps the same hours. Breakfast runs until eleven. Nobody is rushed toward the water — it isn't going anywhere.
II
Each room takes the name of a calanque within walking distance, sized for people who came to look at water, not television. Rates are per night, before the €2.20 taxe de séjour — breakfast included, always.
01
The closest room to the water, and the loudest at five in the morning, when the fishing boats leave for the day's line.
€320 – €390
02
Small, white, and quiet. The only room without a sea view — and, most seasons, the first one we book ourselves.
€270 – €330
03
One east-facing window that fills with light by seven and empties again by ten — plan your mornings around it.
€300 – €360
04
Pine and salt through the shutters. The floor still tilts half a degree toward the sea; we left it that way.
€310 – €370
05
A private balcony deep enough for two chairs and the morning paper — Le Provençal, if the kiosque still has it.
€370 – €430
06
Corner room, two aspects. Watch the ferry to Île Verte pass at eleven and the fishing fleet return by five.
€340 – €400
07
Faces the fig trees, not the sea — our smallest rate, for the sort of guest who'd rather be out walking anyway.
€260 – €310
08
Deep tub, slow taps, a window seat built into the old gun-loop. Book two nights; one is never enough here.
€360 – €420
09
The suite. Its terrace looks over Clos Sainte-Magdeleine's vines to the water — the room we photograph and rarely sell.
€480 – €560
III
La Nacre seats twenty-four, most of them on the terrace, all of them facing west. Chef Camille Fabre grew up two streets from here, trained under Alexandre Fonfon in Marseille's Vallon des Auffes, and came home to Cassis in 2019 to cook what the boats bring in that morning — nothing frozen, nothing flown in.
Dîner 19h30 – 22h00, fermé le mardi. Bar ouvert dès 17h. La cave verse un Clos Sainte-Magdeleine blanc — le vignoble que l'on voit depuis la terrasse de L'Étoile.
IV
The reception keeps a shelf of espadrilles in every size and a hand-drawn map older than the hotel. Four walks, all beginning at the front door.
V
Nine rooms means no room left over for a booking engine that doesn't know your name. Write, or call between eight and eight — Camille or Julien will answer, usually in the same hour.